People Around Us "Safari Guides"

"KK"

The scorching heat of Central India was quite unbearable in May and sitting in an open gypsy (Jeep) we were quite anxious to quickly get into the Kanha Tiger Reserve safari ride. The previous two rides being unsuccessful in terms of sighting a tiger were weighing down on us and the kids were very eager to have a view of this majestic creature during this safari.

“Uncle who is going to be your guide asked one of them? Hope it is someone who is lucky”. That reminded me of a trip back in 2007 and a similar situation. With two safaris down and last one pending the family was eager to see a tiger in the wild. There came a guide  “KK” (popularly known in Kanha) who guaranteed us a sighting and before the ride was over he fulfilled his promise. Since then we had high regards for KK…but over the next few years we never got a chance to meet KK. This time around, I said to the kids may be it will be “KK” and soon after our driver comes back and mentions “we have the Chottu(small) guide with us”. I knew it was KK and when he appeared there was excitement around in the Gypsy. Rest is history…we had a wonderful sighting of Bhima at the BabaThenga lake in Mukki zone and to everyone’s heart content. Thank you KK.

Guides at Kanha Tiger Reserve,

Well the intent is not to describe my ability to prophesize or our excitement in finally seeing the majestic creature. It’s all about the Ecosystem around Safari parks and how the People around us make the experience good for us. Typically, most of the wildlife/Tiger Reserves are located in remote locations and adjoining a small village or hamlet. There would be a small road leading up-to the gate of the park and one can see a few Dhabas (restaurants), general stores, Handicrafts shops, Memorabilia shops and the Forest department offices. Off course there are the houses of the villagers and then comes the milieu of Resorts and Hotels.

There are many people who work in this eco-system who contribute to your experience. The hotel/resort staff, the shop keepers, the gypsy drivers, the forest staff (rangers, guards etc.) and finally the Safari Guides.  Most of us travel to such places, enjoy things around and come back to the urban jungle. Back there, the life still goes on and it is quite interesting to know & appreciate that there is a certain rhythm to this whole thing. The Tiger reserves operate only for 8 months during the year and between June and October these are closed to tourists. This is a period of emptiness and most of the things probably go back to a dormant mode, only to wake up in late Sept or mid October.

The question that comes to mind “What happens to the people?, “How do they earn their livelihood? “How does the ecosystem survive, that is so dependent on us (tourists)”.  “Why they chose this profession”? Also, what do they think about tourists, the forest, the government etc.

In this series, we would like to introduce you to two such key people i.e. “Safari Guide”, and “Gypsy driver”. The first in the series is an interview with “Neeraj  Pareste”, Safari Guide in Kanha Tiger Reserve.

Finally, we reckon that safari guides like KK, Neeraj, Tomar (all from Kanha), Bhupinder (at Ater), Baney Singh (at Bharatpur National Park), Neelkanth, Shravan, Dashrath (from Tadoba Tiger Reserve) and numerous other are an important part of our lives during such journeys and we owe then a  big thank you...

(Contributed by Enigmatic India team)

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Lost in Transit

Crowds, traffic, pollution and noise are synonymous with travel in India. Tourists are usually overwhelmed when they encounter these. So, it was, even to us city dwellers, a pleasant surprise when we came across these signposts and traveled through these villages. Can there really be a place that has only 22 or, for that matter, 80 people?
 
Kurith and Shichling are tucked away in the Himachal mountains. Both these places are very far from any airport, train station, bus stand or a cross road - you really cannot ask for directions as there are no people on the road to these remote places. On our journey, we did not encounter a single person for more than 70 kilometers. It was broad daylight but it was eerie to be on a nice, flat, newly laid metal road and not find people for such a long distance in India.

True to the sign post, 22 people live here. There is a school, a post office, a BSNL outpost and a few houses. 6 months of the year, they are blocked and cut away from the rest of the country due to extreme weather and the blocking of roads. People are hardworking, donkeys are a great asset (often defining the worthiness of a groom) and Potato (Pahadi Aalu) is grown here.

The most prized possessions that are hoarded here are matchboxes and portions of salt. Both are key assets to prepare for the harsh winter when the region is cut off. There is not really any trade here so the existence of the nice flat road surprised us. People were very friendly but could not speak our language. In broken Hindi, we figured that many foreigners often wander into these mountains and camp here. The numbers have been slowly increasing in the past years. The place is not very far from the border and there has been increasing army movement in the area (that explains the road) and the importance of a telephone booth.

The people of Shichling are a little larger population (comparatively :-)). Surprisingly, the women are engaged to clear the roads of small stones that keep rolling down the mountains during landslides. For centuries and for generations, these women have picked stones from the main pathway and set them aside along the road making a nice-looking wall formation. When it snows, these become picturesque and these spots are often used for shooting movies. During summer, the landscape is barren. The weather conditions are unforgiving and the difference of temperature between the shade and the sun can be up to 30 degrees. If you were standing in the sun at 20 degrees centigrade, you could feel the harsh sun burning your eyes, if you went to the shade, the minus ten degrees will urge you to move to the sun. Its an interesting disparity often confusing us, ignorant tourists, on how to dress for the occasion.

The mountains are serene, the air is crisp and still. The sight in the morning is overwhelming.
During winter, the landscape is covered in a sheet of white. The people in these mountains deserve praise to live here, to greatly enjoy the community and survive through the unforgiving weather, often huddling for warmth during the extreme winter and coming together to clear roads for wanderers during summer. Our experience was enigmatic, we were blessed to be here and it was with a mixed sigh of sadness and relief that we left Kurith.


#latebloomer for Enigmatic India.

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"People Around Us" - The story of City Taxi driver"

Last week I had requested for a Call Taxi to drop us to the Hyderabad Airport. As we walked out of our gate, we were greeted by a gentleman who introduced himself as Srinivas driver of Call Taxi. After loading our luggage into the Maruti Omni he took the the directions to our destination.

As we started our short journey to the Airport, I struck a conversation with Srinivas, who spoke fluent non-Hyderabadi Hindi and bit of English. Srinivas worked for Call Taxi a 24 hours service run by Harsha Travels.

He mentioned that like is tough as a taxi driver. Not being educated enough he had a tough upbringing and he finally landed as a cab driver. He travels almost 20 KMs to his office at Begumpet(Chiran Fort Lane) where he takes charge of his taxi. As per him a taxi driver gets a monthly sum of Rs.2500 for a 12 hr cycle. At the end of this cycle he needs to hand back the vehicle at the office.

However, he is quick to add that the company(Harsha travel) provided him with the opportunity to earn money in many different ways:

1. Over-time: The cab driver can opt for an additional 12 hr cycle, providing him with Rs. 80/- which translated to Rs.2400 per month.

2. Good maintenance of vehicle and not availing any Leaves: The drivers were entitled to four days off in a month. However,if one doesn't take leave and the vehicle is maintained in good condition the driver gets additional Rs.1000 per month. Srinivas, proudly announced that  he was one of the four drivers(out of 50 drivers) who have been getting this money every month.

3. "10% commission on the Meter rate": Each driver get a 10% commission on the total taxi meter billed. As per him it translates to 1000/- per month to 2500 per month on good seasons.

Apart from this the drivers get tips from the customers. They love foreigners as the tipping is quite high. All these put together gives him around 8000 per month which he feels is good enough for him to run his family.

While we were talking about this, I could see the sign board for the Hyderabad Airport our destination. He helped us in getting a trolley and gives a provided us with a bill. Bidding us farewell and wishing a safe journey Srinivas continued in his quest to pick up more passengers and taking home higher income to support the family.

A wonderful person in a tough situation - taking life as it comes. May God Bless him!!!

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"People Around Us" - The story of a "Dhobi/Press Waala"

A few weeks back Archana a friend visited us and while discussing on the topic of entreprenuership mentioned about "Ramu".

"Ramu" is a street side "Dhobi" who would press clothes to earn his livelihood. He operates in the Yousufguda locality of Hyderabad,India. A very smart and intelligent person who knew his customers well. Would greet everyone who passed by his cart, enquire with his customers about the days proceeding, update you on local happenings and even help you find some contact/location etc.

Well, one day Archana as her nature is...struck a conversation with Ramu and as things unwinded Archana was shocked to know that she was talking to a next generation entreprenuer.

Ramu the unassuming person he was not earning his livelihood...rather he was running an empire. He used to live with his parents(well to do, owning a two storyed house) in a nearby district. Studied upto Tenth(X)standard and felt that he needed to do something different. He ran away from home and came to Hyderabad. Started running small errands like selling tea, newspapers etc and finally landed up as "Press waala/Dhobi".

Today, he employs 15(fifteen) youths as dhobis and have placed them at strategic locations. To each person he gives a salary of Rs.3,000 per month in addition to the food, snacks and tea. Each of his employee has a mobile phone to get connected and every evening the team gets together late hours to take stock and manage the income.
Ramu has given all of them accommodation and have even insured each for Mediclaim upto Rs.1,00,000.

He drives his business with three simple principles:
1. Keep customer happy.Customer is GOD.(Customer Satisfaction)
2. Give employment and be a good employer.(Social Cause & Employer of choice.
3. Generate profit.(Financial Security)

Amazing approach which all the top strategists/business gurus probably would be taking lumpsum money to give advise to MNCs.

He earns a decent Rs.50,000 per month after all his expenses which amounts to and includes:
1. Salary to employees : Rs. 45,000
2. Food(Approx) : Rs. 10,000
3. Accommodation : Rs. 6,000
4. Mobile phone : Rs. 7,000
5. Insurance : Rs. 1,000
6. Misc(bribe to MCH, police etc) : Rs. 2,000
Total Expenses: : Rs.71,000/-

I am just awed by "Ramu" and his approach to life. Working in a top MNC earning a 6 digit salary figure I feel what I have achieved today is a miniscule of what Ramu is today.

Hats off to Ramu and all such Entreprenuers of India.

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"People Around Us" - The story of an auto driver

Last Sunday I visited the 66th All India Industrial exhibition at Nampally.On my way back, as I was waiting for my turn to get into an auto in this heavy rush...an auto stopped in front of me and the driver waved towards us and shouted "Get in sir, police will not allow me to stop here"

Got into the auto and the auto driver wished me a good evening. My normal habit is that whenever I board an auto or taxi I do strike a conversation with these folks...gives a different insight into their world. Introducing myself I asked his name and he told me his was "Shekhar".

In Hyderabad there are many different kind of autodrivers:

1. Owners who are also drivers -They generally buy the autorickshaw(either new or old) on loan from a financial institution and keep paying the EMI.

2. Driver who borrow the auto -These folks take the auto on loan from some rich person. In return they pay Rs.100-Rs.125 to the owner on a daily basis. The rest of the cost i.e. maintenance, fuel etc is the drivers ownership.

3. Driver only - these guys only drive the auto for people who own multiple auto and run them.

Shekhar started sharing his story with me, sometimes in decent English and mostly in Hindi. He fell into the first category of autodriver who took a loan and bought his auto. Infact, till two years back he had a cold drink agency and general store in Prakash Nagar, opposite to Hyderabad airport. He used to visit the local pan shop for his daily round of cigarette and there he fell in love with the pan shop owner's daughter, a girl from Champapet(maybe 30 kms from this location) and decided to get married. At this point of time he was the owner of a Hero Honda Splendour motorbike, lived with his parents at Prakash Nagar.

He married the girl secretly and hid this fact from his parents for a year, as they wouldnot approve of an intercaste marriage. When they had a kid, he decided to inform them and on the same day he moved out of their home. His fear that his wife who was of a lower caste will not be acceptable to his family.

He sought help of his friends who arranged Rs. 20,000(to set-up his home) and Rs. 30,000 loan to buy a second-hand autorickshaw. Since then he has been one of the thousand autorickshaw drivers in the city of Hyderabad.

His day starts at around 8:30 a.m. even though he would like to start earlier. Has his round of breakfast and gets out of his house near Balanagar around 9:30 a.m. He is not very particular on which route he takes, his motive is to keep his auto busy and make as much money as possible. During the day he manages to eat some junk food and smoke a few cigarettes. He returns home around 10-11 p.m. and has his dinner along the family. He manages to make around 125-150 Rs per day excluding the fuel cost, cost towards the EMI and sundry expenses. He also gives his auto for servicing once a month spending Rs.170, with a belief that once serviced, it gives better milege and also "prevention is better than cure".

While we were talking, I suddenly hear a cell phone ring...suddenly Shekhar frisks out a mobile and talks. He shares that it was his wife wanting to know if they could make it to the second show movie that night.He goes onto add, that his wife is currently doing a course to become a beautician for which he has spend around 8,000 as the course fees.

Shekhar continues stating that the life of an auto driver is like a loafer and he would want to move out of this as soon as possible. He already was investing in a 2500 Rs/per month chit fund and on its maturity he will pay off the loan amount, sell the auto and start with some other business.

While we were talking all of these, I never realized we almost approached my apartment. I knew it was time to bid farewell to my new acquaintance Shekhar. The auto stopped and I paid the required amount and wished Shekhar good night.

That night I saw a person in love, inspired to make his dream come true. Though he was struggling at this point of time, he wanted his wife and son to be self reliant and get the best out of the world. He also believed that he would be a different person 3-4 months down the line and I saw the conviction in him.

There could be many such Shekhar's plying auto around this city waiting to fulfill a dream. May God help them achieve the same.

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