Trip to Datia Palace(Govind Mahal), Datia, Madhya Pradesh

Datia Palace

As we moved on our journey to Orchha from Gwalior, we stopped by at the Datia Madhya Pradesh tourism property for lunch. As we emerged from our vehicle lo and behold in front of us was this majestic fort/palace on the banks of the Karna Sagar lake.

On enquiring with the staff at the restaurant he informed that it was the Datia Fort/ Mahal (Palace) /Govind Mahal /Jehangir Palace (as known by different names) build by Raja Bir Singh Ju Deo(Dev) the Bundela Rajputs of the Orchha house.(You can read more about Datia from the Imperial Gazetteer of India, Vol 11, page 195-199)

While we did not have time to visit the Palace that day we decided to definitely visit it on our return journey.

We had to reach the entrance of the Palace after meandering through narrow lanes of the town. It has a very steep climb of stairs and definitely not friendly for the elderly folks. Hardly any visitors were around and at the entrance there was a guard who noted down our details for Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) record keeping purpose. We finally managed to get the only official guide (as claimed by him) and he narrated some of what we will be penning down.

It is said that this Mahal was started in 1614 and took almost nine years and around INR 32 Lakhs of rupees then to complete this 440 rooms, seven storied palace. It was built as a token of appreciation for King Salim (Jehangir), who Bir Singh Deo had befriended by killing Abul Fazl, Akbar's Vazir. However the visit never happened and so the Palace was not used even for a single day.

Blue Tiles engraved on Mughal architecture

The Mahal is built purely of stone and bricks with no traces of either of wood or iron. It exudes some of the finest of Indo Islamic architecture, with stone lattice and motif work, chhatris, carved ceilings, four octagonal towers, red sandstone Jarokas paintings of birds, animals, flowers (of which some are still visible at the exterior), blue tiles with Mughal architecture tinge(the guide informed us that it was probably Turkist), Bundela paintings etc. At each corner (four) there were four Rani Mahals(Queen's palace) and an additional Rani palace for Jehangir's entourage. The first two floors were built to house the soldier,horses and parts of the entourage.

A majestic place to visit and experience the Bundela era.

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Trip to Ater Fort, Bhind Madhya Pradesh

History of the Fort

After a day long safari at the Chambal River, our journey took us to a lesser known Fort of India, the Ater Fort It is located in the Bhind district of Madhya Pradesh, however it can be accessed from Uttar Pradesh (U.P.)too by crossing the Chambal River.

View of from the top of the Fort

Khoni Darwaza

Without much expectations we set out to see this fort from the UP side by crossing the Chambal river. A camel caravan was waiting for us at the other side and after a lot of juggling all of us managed to mount the camels. The Chambal river bed(sand) was quite wide as the water levels had receded and it took us some time to come to main land. You can also take one of the local jeeps/Auto to go to Ater and after a 30 minute camel safari we could see the large fort structure. At the foot of the Fort in an adjoining ground, the local folks were busy playing cricket.

Restoration work by ASI in progress

We meandered up a small pathway to the entrance of the Fort which was blocked by a truck carrying construction material. Our guides from the resorts walked us through a gate into this large fort. The limited information about Ater Fort is inscribed in a marble stone(by ASI) and placed at the entrance. Built by the Bhadoria Chief,Badan Singh Judeo in A.D. 1644 and was completed by Mahsingh in 1668.

Rani Ka Mahal

Like most major forts there are four entrances in each direction and fortified at seventeen places from a defensive stand point of view. Atypical of the Mughal architecture the Fort has the Diwan-I-Am and Diwan-I-Khas, The Saat Manjila (seven storied watch tower), Rani and Raja ka Mahal (King and Queen Places), the Khooni Darwaza and other structures. There is a huge/deep well and one needs to be careful as its not fenced. The higher floors have become home to the beautiful rose ringed parakeets and one can spot other birds here too including the illusive Crested Buntings.

Archaeological Survey of India(ASI) is trying to restore this place with building material and methodology from those eras. This place is crying for more attention not only for restoration but also to be visited, appreciated and enjoyed.

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